Category Archives: Gemological Institute of America

Bangkok Soujourn Part I

Bangkok's Chao Prya River

Bangkok's Chao Prya River

by Richard W. Wise, G.G.

©2010

Arrived in Bangkok on Tuesday.   We had only a week and a day between returning home from Tucson and leaving again for Asia.  I had agreed to give a talk at the 34th GIA Gathering on the 24th.  Lecturing on jetlag.  I don’t recommend it. Still our timing was good, two days after we left, the northeast was slammed with 18″ of snow.

The Gathering, hosted by Ken Scarrett, was well organized with about 100 people in attendance, good food, good wine and good talk and all books sold.  It was great seeing old friends like Mark Smith, Richard Hughes and Gay and Joe Belmont.  GIA has established a school here with hundreds of students coming from all over the world to study gemology in Bangkok, the colored gemstone capital of the world.  It is particularly gratifying to meet and talk to this new generation of students.  I find myself in awe, they come from such an interesting variety of places and backgrounds.

Ruby; The End of Burma?

Ruby production at Mong Hsu and Mogok has shut down.  Production from Mogok has for years been little more than a trickle and now it appears that the “new mines” at Mong Hsu are at an end of their productive years.  At any rate, according to a number of sources, both mining areas are now effectively closed.

There are few Burma rubies of any quality to be found in the Bangkok market.  In many ways this resembles the situation in the late 1980s when Burma stones did not exist in the market and all that was available was mined in Thailand.  Today the Thai deposits are mined out and Africa is ruby’s new hope!  Compared with Mogok, a valley 20 miles long, the vast geology of East Africa’s Mozambique belt, a geologic formation stretching from from Ethiopia in the north all the way to Zanzibar possesses the greatest potential for gem production in the 21st Century.

MozambiquerubyWe have had the opportunity to see a number of the newer rubies from Mozambique and Tanzania including a 16 carat piece of flattish alluvial rough from Mozambique that will likely cut an 8+ carat stone.  In some cases, the color is quite marvelous, resembling the pure scarlet hues of the best of the old Thai gems.

Very fine old Thai ruby with orange secondary hue.  Courtesy:  http://www.ruby-sapphire.com/brilliance_windows_extinction.htm
Very fine old Thai ruby with orange secondary hue. Some connoisseurs consider that the slight orange frames and adds saturation to the overall color.  Courtesy:  Richard W. Hughes:

The hue itself was often of a purer red than stones from Burma though the high iron content added a murkiness—sometimes adding an orangy secondary hue or a brownish mask that was not attractive.   Both the Mozambique and Tanzanian material while geologically similar and iron bearing have measurably less iron in their composition and thus a higher degree of transparency.  Much of the Mozambique resembles the old pinkish Lai Thai material that superficially resembles some Burmese.   Due to the iron, the African material lacks the highly saturated ultraviolet punch of the best of Burma, though the best material is exceptionally beautiful in its own right.

More later, stay tuned!

Book Review: American Cut, The First 100 Years by Al Gilbertson

by Richard W. Wise
©2007

Al Gilbertson, G.G.
The Gemological Institute of America
Paperback, 214 Pages. $29.95


American Cut, The First 100 Years, sets the record straight. Al Gilbertson tells the true story of the development of the ideal cut round brilliant diamond. First, Gilbertson clears away the prevailing myth endlessly repeated by industry writers, including this one, that Marcel Tolkowsky was the first to articulate the proper proportions for fashioning a round brilliant cut diamond.

Gilbertson has done his homework. He traces the origin of a finely cut diamond from its origins in Early European history to a maverick American jeweler by the name of Henry Morse. Morse, a jeweler not a cutter, opened a diamond cutting shop in Boston around 1860. Morse had the idea that improving the cut of a diamond would result in a more beautiful stone and that better looking stones would sell better. This revolutionary concept brought him in direct conflict with his own employees, diamond cutters educated in Europe where cutters were actually fined if they lost too much weight cutting a diamond.

The author makes the point, not unknown to young men shopping for an engagement ring today, that in diamonds, better meant bigger. From earliest times, European monarchs were in competition with one another to own the biggest diamonds. The ownership of a big rock was a status symbol that added luster to a reign not to mention being a highly portable source of ready money. Not everyone agreed, Louis XIV, the biggest gem collector of them all, ordered his jeweler, Pitau to recut the French Blue from a hefty 114 carats to a mere 66, a loss of 41%, simply to improve its sparkle.

Morse has the good luck to hire a fellow named Charles Field, as his shop foreman. Field invented a mechanical diamond bruting machine that replaced the old method of hand rounding, a laborious process of hand rubbing that required weeks to shape a single gem. Morse experimented with a series of cutting angles and by 1870 had discovered crown and pavilion angles that dramatically improved face-up appearance. Morse and Field then invented a gauge to be used by their cutters to achieve the true precursor of modern “ideal cut” round.

There is a whole lot more. Gilbertson takes us right to the present discussing the influence of Tolkowsky and American pioneer gemologists, Frank Wade and GIA founder Robert Shipley. Gilbertson’s own insights into beauty and diamond cutting are of real interest. He was part of the team that researched over 70,000 sets of proportions that led to the new GIA diamond cut evaluation system and knows whereof he speaks.

Profusely illustrated, well researched and thoughtfully written, American Cut, The First 100 Years gives us the real story. It is one of those books that deserve a place of every gemologist’s library. At $29.95 it is a bargain. Order here




Ordered American Cut, The First 100 Years? Still have a few dollars left?

Follow me on gem buying adventures in the pearl farms of Tahiti. Visit the gem fields of Australia and Brazil. 120 carefully selected photographs showing examples of the highest quality gems to educate the eye, including the Rockefeller Sapphire and many more of the world’s most famous gems. Consider my book: Secrets Of The Gem Trade, The Connoisseur’s Guide To Precious Gemstones.


“Wise is a renowned author… He’s
done a marvelous job of this first book, monumental work, a tour de force…My recommendation: Buy this book”.

Charles Lewton-Brain, Orchid

whether you like to know what the best colour is in Tanzanite, or how to grade a Diamond, you will find it in this book. No other book I read before dealt with this topic is such detail as Richard Wise’s masterpiece.”

A. Van Acker, FGA
Amazon June 2005

“Secrets Of The Gem Trade: The Connoisseurs Guide To Precious Gemstones by Richard W. Wise is an impressive new reference for dedicated dealers and collectors of gems, gemstones, and … pearls. Introducing and descriptively exploring each and every gem covered in the easy-to-use reference, Secrets Of The Gem Trade contains an illustrated summary of each stone inclusive of its history and general information, hue and tone, saturation, which may be noticed as the finest, an understanding of the particular gems rarity, and the caution for synthetics and how to depict them, however depending upon the stone there may be description of clarity, color fading, multi-color effect, etc. Secrets Of The Gem Trade is very highly recommended to anyone interested in gemology as a superbly organized, authoritative, comprehensive, and easy-to-follow reference.”

Midwest Book Review
April 2006

Only $37.95. Read a couple of chapters online: www.secretsofthegemtrade.com.

Buy it on Amazon: www.amazon.com