Category Archives: Gem History

Colored Diamonds; Really The Blues Part II

by Richard W. Wise, G.G.

Fancy diamonds are back in the news, another auction record broken This time its blues. At Bonhams of London, a 5.30-carat fancy deep-blue diamond set a world auction record for price per carat when it sold for approximately $7.3 million, or $1.8 million per carat bettering the previous record of 1.68 million per carat. I recall a 5+ carat Fancy Deep blue emerald cut I viewed at the Las Vegas show some five years ago with an askiing price of 1 million per carat, quite a nice appreciation.

Some might argue that auction prices do not reflect actual market prices, but in the case of fancy colored diamonds and colored gems such as important ruby and sapphire, auction prices set the market. This is a pattern that began to emerge in the 1990s and accelerated in the early 2000s as retail buyers became a larger factor in the auction market. Online auctions also have helped spread the word about important gem sales and in many cases, auction prices actually lead the way.

Update on The Wittelsbach:

Another famous blue diamond is The Wittelsbach, the largest blue diamond ever sold at auction. I wrote about this gem previously, After being recut and regraded from Fancy Deep Grayish Blue to Fancy Deep Blue and exhibited at The Smithsonian Institution side by side with The Hope, London dealer Lawrence Graff reportedly sold the gem for $80,000,000 or something over 3.3 million per carat.

The Wittelsbach-Graff after recutting. Note the distinct grayish hue. Most published and Photoshopped images show the diamond as a rich pure medium hue, the reality is somewhat different; Photo: Gary Rossman

Of course there are a number of Fancy Deep Blue diamonds over five carats but no others over thirty excepting The Hope. Weighing in at 31.06 carats, The Wittelsbach commands a price based on the extreme rarity of a colored diamond of this size.

The Making of a Masterpiece VI (part 1)

Birth of A Concept:

The concept began with a pair of black opals the two peacocks, a perennial part of the Art Nouveau design lexicon. The peacock has been used as a symbol from the time of the ancient Greeks. However, in this case, it seemed particularly useful as a naturalistic excuse to show off the the bird’s plumage using a rainbow of colored gemstones.

Second Preliminary sketch.

Completed sketch

Accenting Color

Finding accents for gem opal is always a challenge. Very few gemstones find a simpatico with opal. In this case; ruby and blue sapphire worked very well, picking up the corresponding hues in the opals, but when it came to the orange tones in the opal, orange sapphire and diamond simply did not work. The only gemstone that the opal would accept was spessartite garnet. Here is the preliminary

layout: In the next post, I’ll share some more images including the steps involved in the hand manufacture of this beautiful pendant. Stay tuned…

Natural Heliodore, Golden Beryl from Connecticut

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10986: 2.11 Carat pear shaped brilliant cut with exceptional vivid color and crystal.

by Richard W. Wise, G.G.

10987 A 1.74 Carat ovall brilliant heliodore from the Roebling/Merryall MIne, Litchchfield, Ct. The gem exhibets an exceptional vivid medium toned golden hue.

10987 A 1.74 Carat oval brilliant heliodore from the Roebling/Merryall Mine, Litchfield, Ct. The gem exhibits an exceptional vivid medium toned golden hue.

Golden Beryl; An American Gem

In the 19th Century, the state of Connecticut was known as a major source of golden Beryl.

In the past few years a fair amount of golden beryl a.k.a. heliodor has entered the gem market. Material currently in the market is coming from Pakistan, Brazil and Ukraine and although there is no reliable gemological test that will prove irradiation, much of this material is thought to be enhanced by gamma radiation, a method that leaves behind no footprints. Of late there have been misguided attempts to cash in on the gem's more famous sibling by re-labeling the gem as "yellow emerald."

The continental United States is not known for its gem wealth though historically both California and especially the New England states have produced some exceptional gems. In the 19th Century, Maine was known as a repository of gem quality tourmaline, some beryl and amethyst. Most of the gems found in New England are of pegmatic origin the result of long super-hot magmatic fingers working their way up through cracks into the country rock causing localized melting into a chemical stew and its constituents, where beryllium oxide was present, might reform into beryl crystals. Many of the most important strikes were found in Maine including the famous Mt. Mica Mine which resumed operations in 1990 after a long hiatus. Pegmatites are found in all the New England states excluding Rhode Island and are particularly numerous in Maine and New Hampshire. Gem mining was in most cases simply a byproduct. The mines were mainly exploiting mica, Beryllium and feldspar.

Beryl is a family name whose best known offspring are emerald and aquamarine. If a beryl is pink it is known as morganite if red it is called bixbite or simply red beryl. In the 19th Century, golden beryl was quite rare and Connecticut was considered a major source. The term heliodore, from the Greek meaning "gift of the sun" was originally a trade name made up to describe yellow beryl from Southwest Africa.

"A Gift from the Sun," Gem Mining in Connecticut:

Few realize that the George Roebling or Merryall Mine located in Litchfield County, Connecticut was, historically, one of the most productive and commercially important gem mines in the United States. This mine opened in 1880 as a feldspar and mica mine and worked intermittently until 1955 when it was closed. According to the late John Sinkankas, Merryall is known to have produced particularly fine beryl in shades of blue, yellow and green including a 40.44 blue-green heart shaped gem that now resides in the Smithsonian. The mine produced some sizable aquamarine, but most of the heliodore production was limited to very small faceted gemstones.

We recently acquired a few particularly fine rough examples of natural unenhanced heliodore, portions of a single large crystal, sourced at the Roebling/Merryall Mine site from a pile of unsorted mine run material in the early 1980s. The crystal was inside a large boulder. This material has been precision cut into a few lovely heliodore gems. These gems are flawless to the eye, exhibit a particularly fine crystal structure, a high degree of transparency and a vivid pure yellow hue and perfectly cut by our lapidary.

10987 Rough material from which the 1.74 carat oval, 10987, was cut.

10987 Rough material from which the 1.74 carat oval featured at the beginning of this post, 10987, was cut.

As Sinkankas points out, very little of the material sourced from this location is of gem quality never mind eye-flawless material. Mine run material containing 1% Beryllium is considered a rich deposit. Gems from this site have not been on the market in many years. For the gem collector, this is an or for the jewelry lover looking for a lovely vivid yellow gemstone, this is an opportunity to buy American and acquire a particularly fine gem from a truly rare source.

Kashmir Sapphire, Another Auction Record

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Dateline: Hong Kong

Current world record holder, 26.41 Carat Kashmir Sapphire Courtesy: Christie's

A New World’s Record:

November 29th, Christie’s Auction House, Hong Kong, sold a 26.41 carat Kashmir sapphire for 3,838,508 or $145,342.00 per carat. This sale establishes a new world’s record price of Kashmir sapphires sold at auction, besting the former world’s record also established at Christie’s (New York) for the 22.66 carat Hill Sapphire which sold in April 2007 for $3,064,000 or $135.216.00 per carat.

Kashmir sapphires were originally found on a small hillock 13,000 feet up in the mountains of the now disputed Indian state of Kashmir in 1881-1882. The harsh conditions at this altitude meant that the mines could only be worked about one month per year. By 1887 the output of the mines had diminished substantially. The original lessee abandoned the diggings in 1905. Four other groups had a go at it with little success and the sites were more or less abandoned in 1928. A bit of material is still occasionally found, alluvial material at the bottom of the ridge, but the major production of Kashmir sapphire lasted a mere six years.

Kashmir stones are highly esteemed for their color, a vivid purplish blue, a hue often described as “cornflower blue.” Others, most notably Richard W. Hughes, author of the seminal book Ruby and Sapphire, describe the finest color as a Pepto Bismol bottle blue. The problem with this characterization is that Pepto Bismol bottles are now pink—but there are those of us who are old enough to recall when the bottles were a bright medium blue. I recall seeing only one stone of this description and it hailed from Sri Lanka.

Kashmir’s famous characteristic, however, is the silky, milky or fuzzy texture that somewhat diminishes the diaphanity (crystal) of the stone. Myriads of tiny inclusions that resemble dust caught in a ray of sunlight or a sub-microscopic milky way, will, when present, diffract and refract the light, causing the stone to take on a velvety glow. Similar inclusions are sometimes found in gems from Madagascar and Sri Lanka, but absent geographical certainty, these “Kashmir type” sapphires do not command nearly the price of those with old mine provenance. The current record holder was accompanied by four laboratory reports certifying Kashmir origin. This, of course, begs the question: If gems are all about beauty and sapphires from other locations have all the characteristics of the finest Kashmir, why does anyone care where the stone is from? The short answer is branding. The market recognizes a value in stones from the original mine. It is also fair to say that although stones can be found with the characteristic glow, very, very few approach the pinnacle of Kashmir color. I have only seen two stones that can be described as #1 Kashmir color and both were from the old mine.

What a difference a light makes, record breaking sapphire before re-cut, note the large culet visible through the table. Photo courtesy Stone Group Labs.

What a difference a light makes; the current record holder before a re-cut shaved a single carat. Note the large culet visible through the table and the characteristically velvety texture or crystal. Photo courtesy Stone Group Labs.

Rapidly Escalating Prices:

Kashmir prices have been increasing steadily since the late 1980s. According to connoisseur and author Benjamin Zucker, a twenty carat fine quality Kashmir sapphire was worth $25,000 per carat in 1976, though I recall an exceptional stone that sold at auction in the early 1980s for $12,500 per carat. By the turn of the last century prices for extra-fine examples at auction passed $100,000 per carat. Pricing must be taken with a grain of salt. Given varying qualities, the vicissitudes of auction houses, and the lack of any real standardized grading system, it is difficult to compare stone to stone.

Prices for premium gemstones, fancy color diamonds, type IIa colorless diamonds, ruby, sapphire, emerald and lately spinel, have all increased markedly since the 2008 bust. This can be traced to a lack of confidence in paper currencies, generally, and the dollar and Euro in particular.

Connoisseurship–Opinions Vary:

Bear Williams of Stone Group Labs, the first gem laboratory to evaluate the new record holder, was impressed. “My hair kinda stood up on end, it had some sort of magic,” he said describing his first look at the sapphire. When Williams saw it, the stone weighed over 27 carats before it was re-cut slightly and re-polished. From all indications the stone is quite superior to the Hill Sapphire, which American Gem Labs President Christopher Smith described as a “nice stone.” in 2007. Smith rated the former record holder, the Hill Sapphire, at an 8-8.5 on a 1-10 scale. Williams puts this new one well into the 9s, “maybe a 9.8” he says. Chris Smith at American Gem Labs, who did a full quality evaluation, gives the stone an overall Total Quality Integration Rating (TQIR) of Exceptional and a color grade of 2.5 (1-10 scale). Note that AGL’s TQIR factors in rarity, together with quality factors. A five carat Kashmir or the same quality would be graded Excellent.

Gem Grading: The Death of the Lightbulb and Other Brilliant Ideas

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Color temperatures a various types of lighting. 5500-6500 is the Kelvin temperature of daylight. GIA uses a 6200 Kelvin light source for diamond grading.

New Technologies May Require Changes is How We Look At Gems:

In 2007 amid little fanfare, Congress passed a law that required that the efficiency of that iconic household standby, the incandescent light bulb, be improved or perhaps accept its doom. The bulb has been around a long time and the technology has remained virtually unchanged since it was invented by Thomas Edison in 1881. Turns out the old bulb is a real energy waster, only 10% of the energy used is given off as light, the rest is dissipated as heat. Though some called it the death of the incandescent light bulb, Congress merely dictated an increase in efficiency, 20% by 2014, 60% by 2020.

Though the efficiency standards do not state what is allowed, such a dramatic increase in efficiency is bound to require new technologies which are likely to mean changes in the light spectrum produced by whatever technology replaces the old standard. No one has given much thought to the consequences this will have in the gem trade. The new standards are scheduled to take effect this January.

In the evaluation of quality, gemstones have been traditionally viewed under two light sources, noon daylight or more lately daylight equivalent fluorescent lighting and plain old incandescent (in the 19th Century it was candlelight). A stone that looked good by day but muddied up under the lightbulb is taken to be inferior to one that holds its color in both lighting environments. In 2003 I published a book, Secrets Of The Gem Trade, that divides gems into daystones and nightstones. The terms refer to gem varieties that look best under a given source. This seemingly bright idea may mean dramatic reductions in oil imports, but wait! What about the gem business, what’s a connoisseur to do?

The Tea Party To the Rescue:

Well our worries may be over, just last week the House passed legislation to deny funding to the law. Apparently the bill’s original Republican sponsor, Texas Representative Michael C. Burgess had an epiphany. He has seen the, ah, light. “The government has no right to tell me or any other citizen what type of bulb to use at home,” no matter how much energy it might save says Mr. Burgess. We have the right to waste all the energy we like in the privacy of our own bedrooms, says so in the scriptures.

But seriously folks! Sooner or later, new, more efficient types of lighting are bound to replace the old standby. Will there be a new standby? Probably not. We are pretty much at the point where the type of lighting used will be dictated by the setting that it is used in. Call it dial a light! At that point will gem grading light be standardized. To some degree it already has. Most laboratories use some artificial version of daylight. The Gemological Institute of America (GIA-GTL) uses a 6200 fluorescent bulb, American Gemological Labs uses a 5500 Kelvin bulb. What is the next step? Stay tuned to GemWise.

Book Review: The Colour of Paradise, The Emerald In The Age of Gunpowder Empires

Kris Lane

The Colour of Paradise, The Emerald In The Age of Gunpowder Empires

280 pages including appendices

ISBN: 978-0-300-16131-1

The history of the gem trade is a difficult research topic because gemstones are very small objects of great value that have been highly sought after for millenia by rich and powerful people looking for wealth that was portable and easily concealed. The trade itself has been controlled for centuries by minority groups, often oppressed minorities, Jews, Armenians and Indians for whom secrecy was a proven form of self preservation. Kris Lane is a historian, a Professor of History at the College of William and Mary. In The Colour of Paradise, Professor Lane focuses very well honed research skills on the history of the emerald, one of the rarest, most mysterious and highly valued of all gemstones.

The book contains no particularly major revelations. Most historians of the trade are aware that India’s so-called “old mine” emeralds were, in fact, Colombian emeralds imported by the Spanish into India in the Sixteenth and Seventeenth Centuries. Lane’s contribution is to meticulously document both the early history of Spain’s brutal exploitation of Colombia’s indigenous people and its gem wealth. He gives us a well documented overview of early trade routes and uncovers some very interesting and original information concerning 16th Century production; methods and emerald values.

Lane begins with the 16th Century and follows emerald production in Colombia right up to the present, with a good account of politics and production into the 1990s.

All and all this well organized and well written account brings real clarity to a relatively murky area of history. The book also contains detailed appendices estimating early emerald at Muzo, relative values of emerald and diamond in Europe in the 17th Century and an extensive bibliography. The author has uncovered several original accounts that have until now been unrecognized. Highly recommended.

Book Review: Terra Spinel by Vladyslav Yavorskyy

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by Richard W. Wise G.G.

Tucson Gem Shows; A Brief Roundup:

Early Saturday morning, Rebekah and I woke from a deep sleep and reluctantly dragged ourselves to the Tucson International Airport. Our two weeks at the annual gem-orgy was over, goodbye blue skies, hello ice and snow. The Berkshires may look “dreamlike on account of that frosting” (James Taylor) but we are, quite frankly, over it! The icicles on our roof are four feet long!

Tucson was quite productive this year. The recession appears to be on the wane. Attendance was up and most vendors were quite pleased, with sales as much as 50% above last year’s—though in some cases, that’s not saying much! Prices in most gem varieties were strong with vendors unwilling to discount. Big auction prices realized by exceptional rubies and sapphires appear to be putting some upward pressure on smaller, finer goods.

Book Review: Terra Spinel:

Yavorskyy, Vladyslav and Hughes, Richard W., Terra Spinel, 2010 Privately Published and Printed in Hong Kong. Full Color, 200 pages; 240 x 260 mm ISBN: 978-0-615-40901-6

Though this is hardly news, in the past three years, spinel prices have doubled, particularly for finer qualities of red, pink and Cobalt blue varieties. Spinel has a long and illustrious history in the gem world, but it languished and traded in an indifferent market through most of the past century. Perhaps this is due to the fact that colorless spinel was used as a diamond substitute in the 19th Century and the bad odor of “simulant” clung to the stone for much of the 20th. This also explains why there has never been a comprehensive book written on spinel. For those looking for such a volume, Terra Spinel is not it.

A magnificent red spinel before and after

Terra Spinel, a large format coffee table sized portfolio (9.75 x 10.25″), designed, edited and written with the help of Richard W. Hughes, author of the seminal Ruby & Sapphire, is a picture book, but what pictures! Both Hughes and Yavorskyy are great photographers. My wife and I look forward each year to receiving Yavorskyy’s annual photo-calendar (not available this year due to the cost of producing the book). Vlad’s photographs burrow down and capture the gritty, often humorous and at times profound everyday realities of the remote regions he visits in search of gemstones. Like the dustjacket pictured above, the book is printed on a medium-dark gray background which makes the images really pop.

Old man, a villager from remote Afghanistan, by Yavorskyy

Beginning with the magnificent 110 carat polished red spinel rough pictured on the cover, the book chronicles some of the fine gemstones Yavorskyy has sourced over the years. Each page, even those with full page images of mines, villages and temples, and these are the majority, includes an example of a beautiful gemstone often juxtaposing rough and polished images of the same gem. Most of these images are labeled with the weight, at least, of the cut version, but many are not. Unfortunately this is also true of the final section entitled Spinel by the Book, which is essentially a seven page thumbnail sketch of the entire collection. Given its importance, a list of sizes would have been very useful.

Hughes does begin with a brief but informative history of both the gem and its ancient names– spinel, balas ruby and lal. Brief biographies and large images of three of the world’s most famous spinels; Timur’s, The Black Prince’s and Catherine the Great’s rubies, are also provided. Having recently visited the Imperial Collections in Moscow and St. Petersburg (October), I can attest to the fact that the color renderings of these important gems are the best available. There are full color maps of both the major historical and current mining areas. The book also contains a helpful two page bibliography.

Terra Spinel is a beautifully designed and sumptuously produced hardcover. The book is swathed in black cloth and wrapped in a thick chrome-coat dustjacket. The title and authors’ names and blind stamped in embossed silver on both front cover and spine. A color panorama begins on the inside front cover (endpaper) and extends to the endsheet; ditto inside the back cover. These are all expensive extras which more than justify its $95.00 price. Unfortunately shipping from Bangkok will cost another $65.00 bringing the total to $160.00. The book may be ordered directly from the website. For those traveling, the book will be available at the Hong Kong International Jewellery Show: 4–8 March 2011. Grand Hall, Booth G09; Baselworld: 24–31 March 2011. Booth C30, Hall 3.1.

Golconda orType IIa Diamonds; Big Prices at Auction

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By Richard W. Wise, G.G.

(portions originally published in 2008)

Another Auction Record? Well Not Quite:

On Tuesday, Christies sold a 27.03 carat DVVS1 cushion cut type IIa diamond for 3.55 million or $131,502 per carat. In a fit of salesman-like overstatement, Rahul Kadakia, referring to a 30 carat D-Flawless type IIa that sold last year for $130,000 per carat, stated that “This represents a 45% increase in the value of top diamonds in just twelve month’s time.” While it is true that a flawless diamond will command a significant premium over a mere VVS, Kadakia is ignoring recent history. At a Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels auction held in New York on April 17th, a 24.42 carat D color Internally Flawless diamond sold for 3.6 million or better than $148,443 per carat. One day earlier at Christies another rectangular step cut diamond weighing 27.91 carats (pictured above left) sold for 4.04 Million or $145,933 per carat.

Collectors Paying Big Premiums for type IIa diamonds:

Sales talk and hyperbole aside, Type IIa diamonds are regularly knocking down auction records. Gems of this type are often called “Golconda” diamonds after the famous Indian mines that supplied a majority of the world’s diamonds until they were mined out in the early 18^th Century. Collectors, particularly Europeans are willing to pay high premiums for these rare gems and for good reason.

Most of the world’s big name diamonds, those mined before 1725, the Koh-I-Noor, The Sancy and for that matter, The Hope diamond came from the fabled diamond mines of India, all are type II diamonds.

Type IIa is a rare type of diamond that contains no measurable amounts of Nitrogen. Nitrogen is the impurity that imparts the yellow color in diamonds. As a result “white” diamonds of this type tend to be colorless (D-F) colors and have few inclusions. (see GemWise:http://www.thefrenchblue.com/rww_blog/?p=29

Type IIa diamonds have unique characteristics. Stones of this type are famous for their exceptional lack of color, a color that goes beyond D and is sometimes referred to as super-D.

“…the old Golconda stones were by comparison ‘whiter than white.’ Place a Golconda diamond from an old piece of jewelry alongside a modern recently cut D-color diamond, and the purity of the Golconda stone with become evident.”

Benjamin Zucker; Gems & Jewels; A Connoisseur’s Guide

Type IIa diamonds have also been found in Brazil and at South Africa’s Premier Mine. It is estimated that only about 1% of the world’s diamonds are type IIa. The auction houses tend to lump together all type IIa stones, but be warned; not all type IIa diamonds are created equal. It is not enough that a stone fits the scientific definition. A true Golconda or perhaps I should say Golconda-type gem is not only “whiter than white”, diamonds of this type have other characteristics that contribute to their unique beauty, characteristics that sets them apart from the common herd.

Gems of The Finest Water:

Prior to the invention of modern terminology, exceptionally fine diamonds were referred to as “gems of the finest water”. The “term” water goes back to at least the Seventeenth Century. Water combines two concepts; color and transparency. For the purposes of rhyming I have renamed this later quality crystal and include it along with color, clarity and cut as one of the “Four Cs of Connoisseurship”. For a gem to be truly considered fine it must have both exceptional color and crystal so “super-d” too refers to more than just the total absence of color:

“This designation (super-d), one that sounds about as romantic as a name-brand motor oil refers to antique diamonds from India’s legendary Golconda mines—stones that are reputed to exhibit an extraordinary transparency.”

Richard W. Wise; Secrets of The Gem Trade, The Connoisseur’s Guide To Precious Gemstones

The True Blue White Diamonds

Type IIa diamonds have yet another characteristic, one that is not well understood or even well known among gem professionals; under certain conditions the stones will emit a blue glow in daylight.

The mechanism that produces this phenomenon is not well understood but it is not ultra violet fluorescence. About one third of all diamonds fluoresce blue under ultra-violet light. A few of these, diamonds with very high fluorescence, will actually appear milky or foggy, i.e. lose transparency in daylight. Golconda-type IIa diamonds, rarely possess fluorescence in any meaningful degree:

In a paper presented in 1975 at the 15^th International Gemmological Conference, gemologist and author Herbert Tillander made the following observations:

“This type (type II) includes all natural blue diamonds, the only current source of which is the Premier Mine and some really blue-white stones without fluorescence.”

“Type II diamonds in general do not fluoresce although they give a bluish afterglow.”

Herbert Tillander, The Hope Diamond and its Lineage, p. 7

The problem is that the blue glow is quixotic and unreliable; Like the famous green flash at sunset that is sought, usually after a couple of Margaritas, by Caribbean vacationers, this phenomenon refuses to dance to the gemologist’s tune.

“Here, in the afterglow of day, we keep our rendezvous beneath the blue And, in the same and sweet old way I fall in love again as I did then.”Twilight Time,

The Three Suns

French 17th Century gem dealer, Jean Baptiste Tavernier

My love affair with this curious phenomenon began at about 2:30 one sunny late June afternoon in the Berkshires. A client and I were comparing two 10 carat type IIa diamonds. Both had GIA certificates, both graded D-Flawless with no fluorescence; one, a modern radiant and the second an Old European, said to be an old Golconda stone that looked like the Regent’s younger sibling. We placed the two together in the afternoon sun, suddenly a phenomenon like a blue haze appeared to dance above the old cushion, while the modern cut stone just sat quietly.

“…the never failing test for correctly ascertaining the water is afforded by taking the stone under a leafy tree and in the green shadow one can easily detect if it is blue.”

Jean-Baptiste Tavernier, 1689

The old Golconda diamonds exhibited these three characteristics, ultra-colorlessness, a high degree of transparency and, if Tavernier is to be believed, a delicate blue glow. Tavernier as quoted above bought all his diamonds in India. Given his statement it would seem to follow that in the original meaning of the term, a blue white diamond was not, as most experts believe, a blue fluorescent stone but rather a non-fluorescent Golconda diamond.

“The Regent possesses that unique limpidity characteristic of so many of the finest Indian diamonds together with a beautiful light blue tinge.”

Ian Balfour, Famous Diamonds

Balfour gives the following description of the 135.92 carat Queen of Holland diamond (pictured left)

“Yet there are experts who, after examining it think that the ‘Queen of Holland’ is a typical Golconda stone. It has been classified as an ‘intense blue’: although it is a white diamond it does possesses a definite blue tint, rather like the colour of cigarette smoke. The Gemological Institute of America has graded the ‘Queen of Holland’ as ‘internally flawless’ and ‘D’ colour…”

Ian Balfour, Famous Diamonds

Very little of any information about Golconda diamonds exists in the current or historical literature. This explains why so few experts are aware of Golconda-type IIa diamonds and their characteristic beauty marks. Specialists that I consulted, at both Christies and Sotheby’s, were totally unaware of the phenomenon of the blue glow. Perhaps this is because, in at least some cases, this ethereal phenomenon is, as I have said, quixotic. It only appears under certain as yet indefinable conditions. It can be seen in sunlight and most gem experts, particularly those in New York, don’t get out much and when they do in the polluted haze that hangs over The City, perhaps the phenomenon is not visible at all.

Mystery Solved?

I had a conversation with Tom Moses who is GIA’s point man on grading fancy color diamonds. Finally a living person other than myself who has seen this affect. Moses is indeed familiar with the blue phenomenon which he describes as the Tyndell Effect similar to the affect that makes the sky blue. This same cause was suggested by Fancy Color diamond specialist Stephen Hofer in a conversation I had with him two years ago.

According to Moses, Type IIa diamonds usually do not fluoresce or if they do, the fluorescence is so weak that it is not reported on GIA’s grading reports. The blue glow is not at all characteristic of a specific location; Moses has seen it is Type IIa diamonds from South Africa, Brazil and Russia. Only a small percentage of type IIa diamonds exhibit this blue glow.

"Mystery of The Hope Diamond" or Smithsonian goes Hollywood!

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The 45.52 carat Hope Diamond

by Richard W. Wise, G.G.

I just watched the Smithsonian Institution’s new program “Mystery Of The Hope Diamond.” It was presented on the Smithsonian Channel Saturday night but can also be viewed online. The presentation focused on two topics; the curse and the gem’s phosphorescence.

That the “curse” was a marketing ploy, invented by Pierre Cartier in 1910, to sell the diamond to Evelyn Walsh McLean has been well documented. According to the legend, the stone brought disaster to all who owned it. Jean Baptiste Tavernier, the man who brought the diamond from India was supposedly torn apart by wild dogs when in truth he died of old age in Moscow. That such a story would tempt the young socialite to defy the curse and purchase the stone, says a great deal about the reckless hubris of nouveau riche Americans of the Gilded Age. It does not answer the question as to why the Smithsonian spent so much time rehashing this discredited old saw.

It seems to me that more recent events, in particular, the discovery in 2007 of the lead replica of The French Blue, a 68 carat diamond owned by the French Crown, stolen in 1792 is far more significant. Subsequent computer modeling based on the replica established without doubt that the Hope had been cut from this purloined stone. That news was given about fifteen seconds and neither Francois Farge, the discoverer nor Scott Sucher, the modeler received a mention.

This was dictated, I am sure, by political considerations along with the rehashing of Richard Kurin’s totally undocumented thesis that the stolen diamond had been purchased by King George IV—a label found with the rediscovered lead model strongly suggests that the French Blue was in the possession of Henry Phillip Hope before it was recut. Oh well, if Hollywood, not to mention Pierre Cartier, has taught us anything it is that to win a mass audience, it is necessary to titillate and legends and curses no matter how far fetched, are far sexier than history.

The Mystery of The Hope Diamond was narrated by Kim Bassinger, who unfortunately did not appear. It featured some interesting antique footage of McLean along with excellent descriptions of the genesis of diamonds, some great footage of India and a very interesting description of the Hope’s phosphorescence. I particularly enjoyed the footage showing the fabrication of the Hope’s new setting by the Harry Winston Company. the Smithsonian’s curator, Dr. Jeff Post did a good job of explaining a number of technical points. It is available on the Smithsonian website and is altogether well worth spending an hour viewing.

Book Review: Russian Alexandrites

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Schmetzer, Karl, Russian Alexandrites

2010, 140 pages. ISBN 978-3-510-65264-4 $49.95

Just received a copy of Dr. Karl Schmetzer’s new book entitled Russian Alexandrites. Schmetzer is the senior author, the book also includes contributions from George Bosshart, Marina Epelboym, Dr. Lore Kiefert and Anna-Kathrin Maisy.

The book begins with an excellent introduction written by Schmetzer and Kiefert detailing the geological setting in the Tokovaya area of the Ural Mountains. Schmetzer notes that in Russia, alexandrite has always been found associated with emerald and gives a comprehensive history of the various discoveries, specific mines and the history of mining for emerald and alexandrite in the area surrounding the Russian city of Ekaterinburg. The introduction includes a breathtakingly beautiful full page image of Russian emerald and alexandrite crystals from the Boyd Collection.

In the Fall of 1830, Maksim Stefanovich Kozhevnikov, a peasant living in the Beloyarsk district discovered the first emeralds clinging to the roots of a fallen tree on the banks of the Tokovaya River. I was immediately struck by the similarity of the description of this discovery of emerald in the Urals to that of the discovery of tourmaline by Elijah Hamlin “on the last day of Autumn” in the same year, at Mt. Mica, Maine. The tourmaline crystals were also found clinging to the roots of a tree: “a vivid gleam of green flashed from an object on the roots of a tree upturned by the wind.” (Hamlin, The Tourmaline, 1873).

Schmetzer also reproduces an entry by mineralogist Sir David Brewster in February 1935 edition of the London Philosophical Magazine and Journal of Science. In the entry, Brewster notes that the crystal is pink-red under candlelight that a thicker crystal would be redder and redder. This entry, read a certain way, is a misleading description and may be the actual source of largely mythical “ruby red” alexandrite. Another other possible source, a novel, The Alexandrite, written by Leskov and published in Russian in 1884 that describes alexandrite as “green by day, red by night.” This, of course, is partly due to the fact that in 1830, incandescent illumination was limited to candlelight which at 1500 kelvin is a good deal redder than the light bulb at 3200k.

Chapter 4 surveys the location of important collections of alexandrite specimens and includes photographs of some of the finest examples. Chapter 5 contains an excellent, easy to understand and beautifully illustrated using both drawings and photographs of actual specimens, discussion of alexandrite crystal morphology. Chapter 6 examines structural properties, again with excellent illustrations consisting of photomicrographs of crystal slices that show both growth patterns and pleochroism. Chapter 7 discusses the very rare cats-eyes and star stones. Chapter 8 compares growth patterns between Russian, synthetic and other natural sources of alexandrite including a suggestion about crystal habit that could be useful to gemologists and dealers in the field in doing preliminary separations of Russian versus alexandrite from other locations using magnification alone.Chapter 9 is the least satisfying though it does have an interesting discussion of color and crystal orientation that would be of interest to lapidaries.

Chapter 10 discusses origin determination. Branding is rampant in the gem trade. High dollar premiums are regularly paid for sapphires from Burma and Kashmir and tourmalines from Paraiba (Rio Grande do Norte) Brazil. Russian alexandrite, due to its very limited supply, enjoys a mythical and mostly undeserved status in the gem trade (Wise, Secrets, p.85-89). Using Laser Ablation (LA-ICP-MS) a particularly sensitive instrument that uses a laser to excise a tiny bit of material and subject it to X-ray fluorescence spectrometry (EDXRF) is able to compare tiny concentrations of trace elements. Schmetzer compares alexandrite from several sources, Hematatita Brazil, India and Lake Manyara, Tanzania and Russia. The study concludes that relative concentrations of the elements; B, V, Ga, Ge, Sn and Ta are relevant in differentiating point of origin in alexandrite. The study was not exhaustive as it excludes material from Ilakaka, Madagascar as well as some other minor localities. It does, however, form a strong foundation to build upon.

The book also includes an appendix with a list of the principle Russian mines and a useful historical timetable. There is an extensive bibliography and index. Altogether a very satisfying volume and a necessary addition to every gemological library. Unfortunately like other German publications, the book is not available on Amazon or any other online easily accessible source. The book may be purchased by contacting the publisher; Schweizerbart Science Publishers. for our English readers, the book also available through the GemA bookshop.

Inside The Vault; The Diamond Fund, Part II

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by Richard W. Wise

It is difficult to know where to start. You enter The Diamond Fund through a vault-like door. The room is simple, dark and unadorned. The showcases are brightly lit. Unlike the rest of the Armoury, the room is quiet, only two groups are allowed in at any one time. The first case contains a pile of diamonds. How else to describe it? Included are some beautifully formed bi-pyramidal crystals—several a large as quail’s eggs! I have as yet found no written reference which describes these stones and gives their history, but modern names such as the 342.50 carat “34th Communist Party Congress (actually found in Yakutia) and the 40.54 carat “Soyuz Apollo” suggest that they were sourced in the Siberian fields during the Soviet Era.

In Europe’s Royal Jewel Game; it was all about size:

After visiting the The Armoury, The Diamond Fund, The Hermitage and The Victoria and Albert (not bad for one trip, hey!) I am struck by how much quality standards in gemstones have changed over the centuries. Obviously the stone in these collections were some of the finest in the world, but they are what we today would strongly fault for the quality of their cut as well as for the often substantial number of eye-visible inclusions. It is important to note, however, that the testosterone fueled game as it was played by the royal houses of Europe was more about size than it was about quality. Having the biggest sapphire trumped having a lot of smaller higher quality gems. The point was, “mine is bigger than yours” and if the color was a little off or the cut was wonky, so what!

The Shah Diamond, so named because it was owned and signed by no less than three royal owners

The Shah Diamond, so named because it was owned and signed by no less than three of its first four royal owners

The Shah Diamond–Truly Expensive Graffiti:

The holdings include two historically important stones. The first is the 88.70 carat Shah Diamond, a Golconda stone from the famous Indian deposits. This diamond, hardly more than polished rough, has a history going back to 1544. We know who owned the stone because each of the owners signed it. The first inscription, perhaps the most expensive graffiti on earth, reads: “Burzam-Nizam Shah the second, Year 1000” (1591). Next it was owned by Akbar, the first emperor of the Mogul dynasty of India, and then by his grandson, the gem loving Shah Jehan who added his own inscription in 1644. The final signature reads: “The ruler kajar Fath Ali Shah Sultan” and was carved in 1824. The stone, which appeared to me to be of high color, is described as “light yellowish brown” due to minute cracks in the crystal which contain iron oxide. These cracks are quite invisible to the naked eye. The stone is a natural octahedral crystal with polished faces.

The second diamond is the Orloff. I was particularly keen to have an opportunity to see this great gem in person. This stone was first described by the 17th Century adventurer Jean Baptiste Tavernier which many readers will recall is the protagonist in my newly published historical novel, The French Blue. An expert observer, Tavernier was also a skillful artist; his rendering of this stone was first published in his Six Voyages (1678) and reproduced in the novel. The stone is in the shape of a giant gum drop, faceted up the sides and across the top. Tavernier describes it as being of the finest water. Golconda diamonds are usually type IIa stones, contain no measurable Nitrogen, and do not fluoresce to ultra violet light. Russian experts have noted “a barely noticeable bluish green tinge”, an ill understood phenomenon that is sometimes seen and described in Golconda diamonds such as The Regent, despite their lack of fluorescence. Diamonds of this type are highly crystalline and are often described as “whiter than white” and bring substantial premiums at auction.

The Orlof, probably the same diamond called The Great Moghul and described by Jean Baptiste Tavernier in The French Blue.

The Orloff, probably the same diamond called The Great Moghul, and described by Jean Baptiste Tavernier in The French Blue.

Another beautiful stone, a tourmaline originally thought to be a ruby and weighing 260.86 carats is set with a green enameled foliate cap. The stone was set in the rough and it resembles the shape and color of a strawberry. It has numerous visible inclusions that add to the fruit like look. It was originally owned by Rudolph II of Bohemia and described by De Boot and called at that time, “Caesar’s Ruby.” It was presented to Catherine the Great in 1777. De Boot valued it at 60,000 ducats.

Update–Siberian Amethyst:

Arrived London on the 21st. Spent a good part of yesterday viewing the famous Victoria & Albert Museum’s jewelry collection. Included is a platinum necklace with a suite of several very large (200 carat plus) amethysts given by Czar Alexander I to Frances Anne, wife of the 3rd Marquess of Londonderry. The suite is of Siberian amethyst. Given the provenance, you would expect these stones to be the finest of their kind. While, fine enough, measuring perhaps 8.4 on a 1-10 scale, they do not stand up to the finest Zambian and Brazilian material and seem to lack the requisite red flash.